I’m often drawn to experiment with surfaces in unexpected ways.  Sometimes the results are good — and sometimes the results are more of a ‘what not to do with xyz surface’ lesson.  But it’s always fun to experiment in my studio lab.  Today I am going to experiment with burlap/jute as a substrate and see what we can and cannot do with it.  Let’s begin.

I am starting with a 12″ x 12″ dual thickness of burlap, sewn together at the edges.  I simply cannot wait to work with this surface and all these nooks and crannies.

I applied Duo adhesive to the upper right and lower left portions of the burlap with a ‘junker’ stencil brush that I keep on hand for experiments.  I applied the Duo in a circular motion, roughing up the texture of the burlap as I went.

When initially applied, you can see the white color of the Duo adhesive.  As it dries and soaks into the fabric, it becomes less visible and then clear and tacky.  The trick will be how much stayed on the surface, and how much was wicked away from the top layer.  Once it gets to the tacky stage, it will be easier to tell.

Once the glue is dry (clear) and tacky, apply leafing foil and brush off lightly using the texture sponge.  This is how our burlap piece looks now.

a closeup…

and the full sheet…

Next, my initial thought was to perform an image transfer onto the exposed burlap surface, but then a little voice kep nagging me, saying, “Been there.  Done that.”  So I decided instead to do some hybrid digital printing onto the surface.  Those of you who know me know that this means I’m heading towards another experiment for which my inkjet printer may or may not survive the night.  But pushing the envelope is why I do these experiments after all!  As my friend, Liz, says:

As always, caveat printer… if you choose to do this part of the technique, it’s all on YOU in other words.  Personally, I consider printers to be the inexpensive part.  It’s the ink that costs.  So I risk mine at will…

If you don’t want to do the printer step, by all means, collage and paint on your burlap directly.

I have a piece of my original artwork that I am very fond of.  It’s a mixed-media painted collage with beading on a canvas pillow form.  I scanned it to use for my blog and Facebook headers, and so forth.  So I decided to take that image and reuse it on a new project, this time on burlap.

I prepared the exposed burlap surface for printing with an application of Digital Ground for Porous Surfaces following the manufacturer’s directions.  Essentially you apply two coats, in opposite directions.

You have to allow the individual coats to dry before proceeding with the next one.  The second coat should cover up any gaps leftover from the first.  I recommend using a ‘cooling rack’, such as one you would use for cookies — but one that is specifically set aside for art projects and NOT for cooking.  This will aid in the air flow around and through the piece to speed up the drying time.  Drying time is admittedly not fun for those of us who are just dying to see if the printer will survive…but the lucky readers don’t have to wait — so read on!

Once the burlap was dry, I attached it to a piece of cardstock for sturdiness.  I used a double sided adhesive sheet for the backing and then taped down all the exposed edges with masking tape.  We don’t want loose bits of burlap flinging around while the printer heads go back and forth!

The burlap has been run through my inkjet printer.  The only addition is some white charcoal pencil which I added to the whites of the eyes to make them pop against the darker background.

So now the printer can act all Scarlett O’Hara and say, “tomorrow is another day”, as it has survived another night of surface experimentation.

Next, because I really still have image transfer on my mind, I was going to use it as an embellishment rather than the focal point of the piece.   This is where the epic fail occurred.  First, there just isn’t enough surface for the text to adhere to on BURLAP.  Second, when removing the paper for the transfer, the only thing that was clear, was that I was pulling the metallic foil off of my project.  Hence — NOT doing that technique here.  We’ll do it on a future project, on the transfer-friendly Studio Cloth.

For now, I decided to collage the corners instead with some lightweight papers.  I adhered them with PPA using a 3/4″ stroke brush.  I also applied a light coat over the top to protect and seal them from my painting steps that are coming up.

Now I’m going to add some paint to the piece, to simulate an aged, burnt look and unify the collage elements with the rest of the project.  The foiling already has a great gilded and aged effect.  In order to simulate it on the paper and other embellishments of the project, I’m going to layer some paints: Purple Mist, Yellow Ochre, and Black.  I know some of you may be thinking, “Aren’t purple and yellow complementary colors?” - and yes, they are.  And typically you would just make ‘mud’ from mixing complementary colors.  But we will be laying down each layer and drying in-between so that we can get a layered effect for each color to do it’s thing seperately.

First, apply a wash of Perfect Pigments in Purple Mist.  Let dry completely or use a heat tool to speed up the process.

I really want you to notice something in the picture above.  Look how nice and transparent these paints are!  I can color the collage without completely obscuring it.  That’s a job for gesso, if I want that effect.  But nice fluid acrylics, such as the Perfect Pigments range work really well for collage and color layering.  I can mix them with a bit of PPA for glazing if I want more working time and removability.  I truly love these paints.

Next, layer a wash of Perfect Pigments in Yellow Ochre over the areas painted in the previous step.  Let dry completely or use a heat tool to speed up the process.

And for the final wash, use lots of water and layer Perfect Pigments in Mars Black as desired to ‘age’ your effect.  You can use a baby wipe to remove it if you apply too much.  Once again, let dry completely or use a heat tool to speed up the process.

Now I’m going to be adding some embellishments and framing elements to the piece.

• I used a mini-stapler to attach a strip of pulled apart burlap, knotted with a bit of ribbon to the top and bottom of the project,
• I’ve added two photo corners, at opposite sides made from pieces of folding wooden rulers,
• I’ve tied an empty spool of thread to the burlap strip,
• I added a canvas dress form and a jeweled flower to make a nice focal element in the bottom corner.

All of these elements have been ‘aged’ with the paints as I’ve discussed above to tie them into the project.

As a last step, I corner framed my finished artwork with some dimensional mini Prills in the Taken for Granite color assortment.

Here is the final, finished project:

US Art Quest Products used today:

• GildenGlitz Leafing Metal in Sunset, #ANC206
• Perfect Paper Adhesive (PPA) in Matte finish
• Duo Embellishing Adhesive
• Texture Sponge
• 3/4″ Stroke Brush
• Perfect Pigments, fluid acrylic paints in Purple Mist, Yellow Ochre and Mars Black
• Mini Prills, Taken for Granite, ANC840

Thanks for looking!

Sally Lynn MacDonald
www.sallylynnmacdonald.com
www.facebook.com/sallylynn.macdonald

Supplies Used:
Perfect Pigments (Secondary Colors)
PPA (Perfect Paper Adhesive)
Duo Adhesive
Gilding
Mica Powder – Jewelz
MINI PRILLS
Various Ink
Diamond Glaze or Perfect Paper Adhesive – Gloss

I started by printing off my information on white card stock.  I wanted to add color to them so I used large stipple brush and Ink to add a variety of color to the information strips.

Apply color to paper.

This is the pile I had done after adding color.

I wanted to add a bit more interest to the name portion so I used Perfect Medium and stamped over the words.  I then used a very soft brush to apply Interference Mica Pigments – Gold to the ink.  It left a very subtle shine/glimmer to the cards.  I then set these aside.

I have loaded more than necessary on the brush.  There is no waste as the excess can be brushed back in to the jar.

Spread around and brush off excess.   I next started on the tags.  I put a small amount of Perfect Pigment on the paper and added PPA.  This made the paint a bit thinner and more transparent, but you can use Perfect Glaze – Clear if you have that on hand.  I covered both sides lightly and let dry.  Just a note, when setting the tags aside to dry, make sure they don’t stick to each other.  Yes, that was a note to self!  Now a really fun part, GILDING! Add Duo Adhesive to your Cut and Dry Foam and then apply to the stamp of your choice.   Stamp the image and let dry completely.  Apply gilding on the image and cover completely.  Brush off all the excess with a stiff brush to reveal….. The wonderful stamped design.  Looks great on any color background. I then tore around the edges of the card information and attached to the non-gilded side of the tag.  I used Perfect Medium (or you can use the Duo Adhesive) to stamp the pear image in a few places on the printed side and use various Mica Pigments. I wanted to add a final touch and I just received the perfect accent, PRILLS!  Mini Prills are and interesting accent for all your paper crafting projects and more. They are 100% natural, heat resistant, acid-free and non-toxic!  They come in over 40 colors!  I used Diamond Glaze to adhere mine. Sue says, “PPA Gloss or Matte are her preferred adhesive because it won’t yellow or become brittle over time.”  Adhesive is applied to the slight edge.    Prills are then poured over the adhesive.  Excess is poured off and placed back in the cool little jar. And these are the finished tag/business cards! I hope you have enjoyed these fun tags.  I had a lot of fun making them  And just so you know, I just ordered MORE Mini Prills.  They are just so cool.  Other thoughts: Add them to Ultra Thick Embossing Enamel Any place you would use Micro Beads Mix them into or apply them on top of paint for texture Apply them to 101 Artist Cement or any paste Apply them over hot glue Apply them to various sticky tapes Mix with your Diamond Glaze/Crystal Lacquer   I am still working on more ideas!   Happy Creating Kristi

Here is a quick weekend project and I know you all have vases sitting around just screaming for some attention….right!?!

First off I took a standard glass vase and pulled together a few items…Window Etch Paint, PPA, Studio Cloth, Perfect Glaze, #4 Paintbrush, Sizzix Big Shot die, Gildenglitz and some tape.

Step 1: tape around the vase where you would like the etching paint to be. I originally started with two stripes on the vase but later changed it to the whole bottom half being etched.

Step 2: Once your etching paint is dry, remove the tape. At this point I took some PPA and used my finger to add a thin layer around the border of the etching paint and the regular part of the vase. This needs to sit aside for a little while and let it get to the tacky stage.

Step 3: Once the PPA is tacky…take some of the Gildenglitz and gently add it to the layer of PPA. Don’t worry about have extra on there. Once it is dry you just simply take a paint brush and brush off the extra to have for another project.

Step 4: Now I cut off a small section of my Studio Cloth and ran it thru my Sizzix Big Shot using the flower die cut. With a little hot glue and some felt…I then began to roll up the flower and let it sit. Trim off any extra felt. Now I used the #4 paintbrush and added some Perfect Glaze to the outside edges of the flower. Glued a button into each center and then glued the entire flower onto a orange felt flower.

Step 5: Now you can add the flowers to the vase. I used just a dab of glue and held it there until it set and would not slide. With all three flowers in place and dry..I added some pinecones I found on clearance. Then cut some limbs from our oak tree for some added decoration.

Hope you enjoyed this little project and I can’t wait to see what you make too.

Becky Thackston

Sometimes I feel more like a collector than a crafter. I see things, new and old, and say to myself, “Ooo! That’s so nice! I know I can make something with that!” I buy it and then it sits—sometimes for weeks, months or even years. That was this case with the Kimono stamp #2545 I from JudiKins. I’m always drawn to Japanese influenced or themed things and I just had to have this stamp. That was probably two years ago. I had never used it, until this project.

The first time I played with USArtQuest’s MicaColor Watercolor Metallic & Pearlescent Palette I was fascinated by the resulting effect. I can’t really say they “sparkle” because it’s not that harsh. It’s more of a subtle shimmer or sheen that is embedded into the paint (versus layered on top). It reminds me of the beautiful sheen that silk has and I immediately thought of the Kimono stamp. I applied the MicaColor to white quality cardstock to create a background. It even feels silky as you apply it—almost creamy! I took this photo holding the paper at an angle against the light so you could try and get a feel of the sheen. To me, it looks every sophisticated and elegant.

Next I stamped the background with the Kimono stamp. I did this twice so I could layer the finished project.

Take the first stamped imaged and dry emboss it using the Koi folder from the Plum Blossom Set by Cuttlebug. Take the second stamped image and cut it in half vertically. Emboss each half with the same folder, shifting each one slightly, so the embossed image doesn’t line up when you layer these halves beneath the first image. That helps create the illusion that the Kimono has folds on each side. It’s a little detail that most people won’t notice, but it really does help the finish product look more polished.

I found applying Duo Adhesive to the raised portions of the design using a cotton swab. It was the easiest way for me to just hit the embossed areas without getting any adhesive on other parts of the piece. If you have a steady hand, you could apply the Duo Adhesive to Cut-N-Dry Stamp Pad and just kiss the embossed areas.

Wait just a bit for the Duo Adhesive to dry. Remember what Sue says, “When it’s white, it’s not right. When it’s clear, it adheres!” Apply Gildenglitz Leafing Metal to the embossed areas and burnish with a Texture Sponge. The Draw and Gild Kit is a great way to get started. It has everything you need to get started with gilding!

To create a hanger, take a bamboo skewer and cut off the ends. Save the middle portion for another project! Cover the two ends with Duo Adhesive, wait till it’s clear and then apply Gildenglitz Leafing Metal. Burnish off the excess.

Fussy cut each stamped image. I left extra paper at the top of the Kimono for the top layer so I could fold it over the bamboo pieces. Mount the top Kimono to the bottom layers (remember, there are two pieces here, since you cut it in half) using foam tape.

I found a great shadowbox at a thrift store and was able to repurpose it to hold this little Kimono. It looks fantastic against the deep black background—just like a tiny silk Kimono.

You can see my other projects on my blog at Create & Craft.

Happy Crafting!

Joe

Today I decided to make some earrings for Valentine’s Day and my 25th anniversary, which is coming up soon as well.

I took a mica tile and ran it through my die cutting machine using a heart-shaped die.  I love the scalloped shape of this die for earrings.

The mica cuts beautifully.  Even the small details come out well.  It’s easy to trim a bit with scissors if you want – but I like the natural edges of this mineral on any overlap edges.

I wanted something swirly for the background of the mica hearts.  Because I’m stamping on a non-porous surface, I know it’s highly likely that I’ll have difficulty getting a crisp image.  Therefore I pick a pattern that will work well for this situation.  A large background patterned stamp would work just as well, but I wanted to maintain a border around my heart that wasn’t embellished on the mica.

I put a little bit of Duo Embellishing Adhesive onto a square of Cut ‘n Dry foam to make a stamp pad.  Use this as your ‘ink’ to stamp the image onto the mica hearts.

Once the glue is dry (clear) and tacky, apply leafing foil and brush off lightly using the texture sponge.

Here is what they look like now.  You can spray a sealer onto the leafing foil to prevent tarnishing.  I am going to flip them over, so the foil is peeking through the mica when I wear the earrings.

Now for a bit of wire working.  I wire-wrapped a couple of Czech glass beads and added a small key on a jump ring to these adorable tiny door plates with crystal knobs from my stash.

I placed the mica hearts, leafing side down, onto a cork tile and line up the embellishment.  Use a metal awl / piercing tool to punch a tiny hole through the mica tile.

I ran my ear wires through the hole and adhered the embellishment to the mica tiles with PPA.

These are super easy and really fun to make.  Now that I’ve made them, I am imagining all the other wonderful shapes I could die-cut.  The Mica Shapes, Corners would make great chandelier-style earrings.  A coordinating pendant is definitely in my future!

US Art Quest Products used today:

• Mica Tiles
• GildenGlitz Leafing Metal in Brilliant Gold, #ANC202
• Perfect Paper Adhesive (PPA) in Matte finish
• Duo Embellishing Adhesive
• Texture Sponge
• Cut ‘n Dry Stamp Pad Material

Misc. products for this project, two of each:

• Earring Wires
• Jump Rings
• Head Pins
• Czech Glass Beads
• Embellishment, if desired.
• Die, Die-Cutting System or pre-cut shapes.

Make sure to check out HSN today!  Susan Pickering Rothamel will be on at 7:08am est and 12:26 in the afternoon.

Thanks for looking!

Sally Lynn MacDonald
www.sallylynnmacdonald.com
www.facebook.com/sallylynn.macdonald

Materials Used:
Pretty Napkins
Clear Glass Vase
Perfect Paper Adhesive – gloss
Duo Adhesive
Gildenglitz – Variegated
Soft Brush
Studio Paper
Detailing Scissors – ‘Miones’

Begin by washing the vase and drying it thoroughly. Next it’s fun time! Cut out the napkin designs you like best. It’s easiest if you leave all the layers of the napkin together until you’re ready to glue them to the vase. IMPORTANT: Before gluing them to the vase you must carefully remove the two back layers, leaving only the printed top flower.

Carefully apply the adhesive to the back of the paper napkin flower. Just as carefully, lift and place it onto the vase. I found that for tiny pieces, tweezers came in handy. Apply the PPA over the top of the flowers too. This will protect them and firmly adhere them to the glass. If too much glue gets onto the glass, you can easily remove it easily with a cotton swab and water. I looked the vase over at the very end, and found some seemingly dried adhesive. Once wet it still came off fairly smoothly. But I wouldn’t wait too long to do the clean-up, because the adhesive dries rock-hard within an hour or two.

After adhering flowers all over the bottom part of the vase, I decided to add them to the base too. I turned the vase over and adhered the flowers to the bottom of the base.  Then I got the bright idea to add gilding. When the PPA was completely dry, I applied a light coat of Duo Adhesive. (Say to yourself, “When it’s white, it’s not right. When it’s clear it adheres.”) In other words, let the Duo dry completely.

When it is completely dry, apply the gilding leaf. I used Gildenglitz – Variegated, but plain gold or silver would have also looked nice. Remove the excess with a Texture Sponge. Apply a generous coat of PPA-gloss to the gilding. This will protect it from getting scratched when the vase sits on the table.

When dry and right side up, the gilding glows through the glass base, giving the vase a rich appearance.

Here is the completed vase, ready for a fresh bouquet of flowers, straight from my garden.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this project and will try it yourself!  The vase doesn’t have to be this large.  After all, flowers look pretty in jelly jars too.  And, jelly jars can be made even prettier with some napkin collage embellishing!

These boxes and other shapes shown here too, are part of the ‘Satin Mache’ line of products.  There are about 10 different shapes and several are stacking boxes. (Round, Hex, Star & Keepsake)  They are ultra-smooth paper mache and perform much like wood, but have unusual shapes and good pricing. You can find them at http://www.usartquest.com/products.php?cat=181

I prefer most often to ‘size’ the box with a light coat of PPA – Matte.  This prepares them to be painted, collaged, sanded, polymer clayed (is that a word?) and altered with any other art material.  The desk set makes a wonderful gift, especially when loaded with greeting cards, postage stamps and such.  The smaller jewlery boxes are charming to give as gift itself, especially when lined with velvet/suede paper and filled with diamonds.  (Did I just give away my Christmas wish list!  Oh MY!)  LOL

Sure!  I use ‘Gildenglitz’ for all kinds of things, from picture frames to collage, wall appliques to gift boxes.  For the boxes below, simply give them a light coat of PPA -Matte to prep them. Use the Duo Adhesive according to directions, and add the gilding.  Add your own embellishments and gift them to your favorite people!