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In early August, 2012, in Cincinnati, Ohio, I’ll be teaching four classes at Stampaway -  one of the best stamp shows in the country. One class, Retro Deco Revival Art Tags, features 5 tags with 5 techniques using a variety of materials. This Mermaid Tag is the basis for one of the tags in that class.

Mermaid Stamp from JudiKinsFrom the minute I saw Judikins Mermaid stamp (2814 I, catalog page 130) I fell in love with it. Her long curvy body and wispy hair is gorgeous. I knew her hair and tail would look amazing painted with USArtQuest MicaColors watercolors. They would give her just the right amount of shimmer.

To begin this project, stamp the mermaid on watercolor paper with embossing ink and heat emboss with fine black embossing powder. Carefully color her skin and bathing suit top with Copic markers (Skin E00 & Chinese Orange YR09). Mermaid Stamp with Mica WatercolorsThen paint her hair and tail with MicaColor watercolors (Metallic Misty Lavender and Brilliant Gold). Fussy cut out the mermaid. I used a Zing electronic cutting machine which cuts so fine it was able to cut out the spaces between the strands of her hair!

Mermaid Tag Preparing to CollageCut out a tag shape from heavy white cardstock or illustration board. Using Perfect Paper Adhesive (PPA), collage napkins on to the tag to create an underwater scene. You can use glossy or matte. Unlike other adhesives, PPA isn’t sticky, so it’s easy to work with delicate papers, like a single ply of napkin. When you’re finished collaging, cover the entire tag with PPA and then lightly sprinkle some Mermaid Tag - CollagedCrystal Effectz over it, to give the scene extra sparkle. Use the PPA to adhere fibers to the tag to create seaweed.

Once the collage is dry, you’re ready to create a sandy ocean floor. Take a small amount of Artist’s Cement 101 Heavy and mix it with some Perfect Pigment Pure Liquid Acrylic (Burnt Umber). By doing this, any cement that isn’t covered by sand will be the color of the acrylic rather than white.

Mermaid Tag with Artist's CementThere are two types of Artist’s Cement; Light and Heavy. Both dry to an opaque matte finish. 101 Heavy dries to a very hard finish, while 101 Light is more flexible when dry.  I think it’s probably called cement because of how well it bonds things together, rather than it’s texture when wet. When I first opened the jar, it immediately reminded me of Pond’s Cold Creme my mother used 40 years ago. It’s silky smooth, creamy and very soft. You can form soft peaks with it and create great textures that can later be painted, sanded, carved, etc.

Use a small palette knife, popsicle stick or coffee stir stick to mix the Cement with the acrylic paint and apply it to the bottom of the tag, creating a textured ocean floor, just a bit thinner than 1/4″.  Mermaid Tag with Artist's Cement - sand and shellsPour some sand over the Cement , shaking off the excess. Press some small shells in to the Cement and let it dry overnight.

Mermaid Tag piecesTo assemble the tag, punch a hole at the tap, add an eyelet and thread some ribbon through it. Use pop-dots to attach the mermaid to the tag.

You can see more of my projects on my blog on Create & Craft.

Happy Crafting!     Joe Rotella

Finished Night Light Koi Night Light
Night light by day… Night light at night…

Tinkerbell Night Light

On a recent trip to the Dollar Store, I came across night lights for $1! Night light kits sell on the web for $3 and up, so I knew this was a deal I couldn’t pass up. I was sure I could use the parts to make my own night light by replacing Tinkerbell with something else. Yes, I know, she’s cute, but she just doesn’t fit my home’s decor.

At first, I thought I would remove the disc on the front of the night light and replace it with a sheet of mica – after all, mica is translucent. Mica lampshades date back to the earliest electric lamps used in the US and continued to appear through 1930′s. So, why not a night light? But then I thought about Mica D'Lights from USArtQuestMica D’Lights. The texture is a bit similar to glitter, but more “organic” since Mica D’Lights is made from a natural material – mica. D’Lights add subtle and sophisticated glimmer to a project without being too harsh or glaring. So, for now, the mica sheet idea is tucked away for a future light project.

Cut Bond Create from USArtQuestI could apply Mica D’Lights to the disc using Cut Bond Create. Let me be up front about this – I love Cut Bond Create from USArtQuest! Think of it like a thin sheet of adhesive sandwiched between two sheets of waxed paper.  It’s  heat resistant, transparent, non-yellowing, flexible and acid-free. You can use it with your punches to form shapes, use it with dies in die cutting machines, cut it with scissors or cut it with electronic cutting machines like the Zing or Cricut. Once you have the shape you want, you can peel off one side, adhere it to your project, then peel off the other side to expose the adhesive so you can add mica, sand, flock, embossing powder – you name it!

Cut Bond Create on a Light BoxI love how you can “kiss cut” a pattern in to the top layer of paper on Cut Bond Create and then only expose sections at a time to “paint by numbers” with mica or embossing powder. I used that technique to create a Red-Eyed Tree Frog Box using Mica D'Lights from USArtQuestred-eyed tree frog using Mica D’Lights and adhered it to the top of a note card box. You can kiss cut Cut Bond Create using a craft knife or a cutting machine. If you want to use a craft knife, you could stamp your design on top of the Cut Bond Create or place it on a light box under the Cut Bond Create. Then follow the lines with your knife with very little force, to just cut the top layer of thin paper. Cut with more force to cut out the design.  When you use a cutting machine, cut the interior lines on a low pressure/force setting. Cut the outline out with more force.

Disc Partially SandedWith the concept in mind, it was time to start the project. Luckily, a little gentle sanding easily removed Tinkerbell from the disc so I had a clean surface where I could apply Cut Bond Create.

Koi Stained Glass Window by Anna VarneyI found a beautiful photo of a circular stained glass window done by Anna Varney of Living Glass Art. Check out her Etsy store for some amazing stained glass windows. Her work inspired me to recreate her design, in miniature, using Mica D’Lights and Cut Bond Create. I was able to duplicate the design in Make The Cut (software used to control the Zing cutting machine) and reduce it to 3.4375″ in diameter. That’s about the size of your palm and the exact size of the disc on the night light.

Click to download the Make The Cut project file for the koi stained glass window. I cut the design from Cut Bond Create on my Zing Cutting Machine PackageZing in two layers; light pressure for the interior cuts and more pressure to cut out the circle.

Peel off the bottom layer of paper from the circle to expose one side of the adhesive and place it down on the night light disc. Press it down firmly.

Next, peel off the top layer of paper that covers the leading (black areas) of the stained glass window. This is detailed work, I had to use a pin to just lift off the top layer of paper and then slowly peeled it away. Cover this layer with detailed black embossing powder and heat emboss. Be careful and go quickly. The intense heat of a heat gun could melt the plastic disc! The Cut Bond Create can take it, but the disc can’t. So be extra careful when doing this step.

3 Colors RemainingNow it’s time to apply the Mica D’Lights. Work with one color at a time, from the darkest color to the lightest color. Peel off the top layer of paper, exposing sections of adhesive for a single color, apply the color, brush off the excess, and the repeat for each color. It’s really like coloring by the numbers, one color of Mica D’Lights at a time! I used the eight colors in Collection 1 of USArtQuest’s Mica D’Lights for this project. It was the perfect combination of colors.

When you’re finished, you’ve made a stained glass window night light using Mica D’Lights!! It looks spectacular in daylight, with a soft, subtle glimmer. And at night, when the light is coming through the mica, it’s amazing! And I bet the colors would be even more intense if the disc were clear instead of a milky white.

The Finished Night Light on the work table

I hope you’ll consider transforming a mass-produced night light in to your own work of art using Cut Bond Create and Mica D’Lights!

Check out my blog on Create & Craft for more project ideas.

Happy Crafting!

Joe Rotella

Create & Craft

Jewelz Painted Stickers

This is one of my most favorite techniques that I have been teaching for years – over 15 years to be exact!!!  I know that I have been nostalgic with techniques because what has been taught for years, is still relevant today.  How the finished project is used may be different, but the techniques go on and on forever.

Jewelz, a richly pigmented mica powder works perfectly with this technique – you’ll want All the colors!  The other product that completes this technique is Cut.Bond.Create – it is a wonderfully versatile double-sided adhesive sheet that is heat-resistant, transparent, non-yellowing, acid free, and flexible.

USAQ Supplies:

Jewelz Pigmented Mica Powder – Various Colors

Cut.Bond.Create

Perfect Brushes – #4 round for most painting, 1/2″ snap for fill in or large backgrounds

Before Cut.Bond.Create became available, I used to do this technique with other transparent substrates.  A double-sided adhesive was used to paint with the pigmented powders.  With Cut.Bond.Create, you do not need anything but the product itself!  Note:  A special bonus technique will be added at the end – thanks to a creative discussion with Sue, myself, and Joe Rotella.

1.  Cut a piece of CBC (Cut.Bond.Create) to the size a little bit larger than your image.  Use the blue cut lines to help you get a perfect cut.  Use your finger to flick a corner of the CBC and peel back one of the protective liners to expose one layer of adhesive.  (Be careful, and hold by end.  Fingers have oils in them and can destroy some of the stickiness.).

2.  Lay CBC on your work surface with the exposed adhesive side up.  Use the liner piece you pulled off as protection as you work (You can lay your hand on it to secure the CBC as you work.).  Next you will stamp an image with permanent ink right onto the CBC.  An outline or finely detailed stamp with a lot of open areas works best for this technique.

3.  Find the colors you want to use to color your stamped image.  Sort of like coloring book fill-in, start with the smallest, image to color.  Dip the tip of your brush into the Jewelz color of your choice and use the lid to tap some of the extra mica powder off (If you have a large area to do, this is not necessary).  Touch the Brush to the area you want to color and lightly move the brush to fill it in.  Note:  This takes a little practice, you might want to play with a scrap piece of CBC to get the feel of how much powder is needed on the brush.  You want to work the color onto the surface so you no longer see the powder but just the shimmery color burnished on the surface.  With large spaces, it will take a few dips into the powder, gently placing on the area, and then moving the brush with powder to cover/burnish area with color.  Use the 1/2″ brush when necessary.

4.  Keep adding color as you go along until you fill the whole area, including the background.  Once the coloring is finished, you can use as is – removing the other protective liner and adhering it to a card, scrapbook page, glass, or other surfaces.  You can also, cut pieces out of the image (Such as a butterfly or flower), and use the protective liner to save your art ~like a sticker~ to save and use when you need that “added special image” to a project.  I have a folder filled with them!

Here are some examples:

Brilliant pigmented, and wonderful for Christmas Cards.

The sticker is the grapes and leaves on the bottle

An additional idea is to use two colors together or blend parts as I did with the woman’s face or the pear on the upper photo.  A pink/berry color was used to the woman’s cheeks and to shade the pears.  You are only limited by your imagination!!!!  Using CBC instead of a transparent substrate lets the texture show and the  brilliant pigments dazzle the art.  In addition, you can use your die cutting machines (electric or hand) to cut shapes and then remove the top protective liner, stamp/paint, or just paint with Jewelz.  Joe Rotella is the wiz with the Zing cutter.

BONUS:  Faux Photo Tinting

Joe had asked if you could print on CBC.  I was thinking the liner with the idea of Print and Cut with the Zing or other die cut machines.  The idea is to print, cut, and then peel the back protective liner to adhere to a surface.    I found out you can use your injet printer and print on the protective liner!  This is the liner part that doesn’t have the blue measurement lines.

I create my own graphic images and there are a ton of digi stamps on websites.   Note:  If you print with CBC, when it comes out of the tray printed, let it sit there for about 60 seconds to dry.  I have an HP printer and this works beautifully.  Once the image is dry, you can do many things to finish the image, plus cut it out with the Zing.

For Jewelz, after I print out the image, I pick up a little Jewelz with the round Perfect Brush and start to burnish the color onto the image.  You need so much less powder for this, and the results look like tinted photos!  It looks so cool!

Get several Jewelz sets, and some CBC and have some fabulous fun creating your own ephemera images that glimmer and sparkle!

Jewelz Color Chart

Since Mother’s Day is just around the corner…I thought it would be nice to make my daughter a cute frame to hold her precious daughter’s picture. I started off by purchasing the European Napkin Collection from USArtQuest. This has everything you need to completely cover a cute frame. (plus many more).

I covered the front of the frame with PPA and then with the napkin. Once it had become almost dry…I layered another coat of PPA on top. This makes the napkin harden and stay completely on the frame. Once that had dried I was able to add a few embellishments here and there. These rusted hearts are another item you can find at USArtQuest and are a MUST have. I can’t wait to use them on some more projects.

I hope you give this project a try. And it is a perfect project to try with your kids to make gifts for that special someone.

I would like to take a moment and thank USArtQuest for allowing me to be a part of this fantastic, talented Design Team. It has been so rewarding and I have learned so much. I hope you have enjoyed my projects over the months and I hope you give them a try. Don’t forget to stop on over to the USArtQuest store and pick up some of the wonderful products for your own projects.

Becky Thackston

Tie Detail

The Finished Collaged TieEarlier this week I was at lunch with Joe Morgan and Carole Lassak, and, as usual, we were talking about crafting. We work together at our “real job” (Delphia Consulting) and have lunch together every day. And because we all love to craft, we inevitably talk about ideas, projects, products, etc.  This time the topic was Perfect Paper Adhesive (PPA) from USArtQuest and fabric.

We knew from Susan Pickerington Rothamel’s demonstrations that PPA works great on Studio Cloth -  a soft, durable, triple laminate, non-rolling canvas, that does not curl, and does not fray when cut. But I wondered about “regular fabric.” What would happen if I tried to collage with PPA on an ordinary household fabric?

Original and Thrift Store Price of TieLuckily for us, there was  Goodwill Thrift Store right near where we had lunch! So, we ran in and I picked up an old gold tie. In it’s prime, it must have been pretty special because it had the original price tag – $49.50! Now, at $3.90, it was a steal! LOL!

Once home, the project began. I applied PPA Matte on the tie in small sections. The silk really absorbed the PPA, so I had to put it on pretty liberally. Then I collaged the napkin pieces just like I’ve done on wood and chipboard (here’s a video showing how). It worked really well.  I noticed the PPA did darken the silk a bit, so I was sure to cover any PPA areas with napkins.

Collaging A Man's Tie with PPAI wasn’t sure how stiff the PPA would be when it was dry, so I decided to only do the bottom portion of the tie. This project really was an experiment – a way to learn.

After it was dry, I painted over the design with Perfect Pigment Pure Liquid Acrylic Paint. I wanted to brighten up some of the flowers, the birds and the cages. Joe Morgan lent a hand and added some turquoise flourishes and sponged some paint at the top of the collage with a Texture Sponge to help it blend better into the tie.

A Finish Coat of PPA Matte on the Tie (still wet)After the paint was dry, I applied a finish coat of PPA Matte and sprinkled it with some Crystal Effectz while it was still wet.

The collaged area isn’t stiff at all. It’s very flexible and feels somewhat similar to the finish that’s on a vinyl tablecloth. Best of all, it’s water resistant! If I spill anything on that portion of the tie (very likely!) I can simply wipe it off!

I’m thrilled with the transformation of an old gold tie and learned how well PPA works with fabric! Now I wonder what else I could find to collage on…. hmmmm

You can see more of my projects on my blog at Create & Craft.

Happy Crafting!

Joe

I have enjoyed bringing these fun USArtQuest products with you all through my art!  Today is my last post, and so I have created a Secret Love Letter Canvas.

 I adore flowers and recently embarked on creating them from water color paper. They take on life, all by themselves. It is really fun.

The tiny canvas has a secret layer of writing, that was painted over with Perfect Pigments in turquose, and then written upon with a white gel pen and Sharpie.

The flower is torn from water color paper and old encyclopedia pages. The large petals are painted with Perfect Pigments and then over painted  with Mica Colors. The printed pages were painted with Mica Colors only.

The instructions can be found here.

I hope as an artist, you consider expanding your artist’s tool box using some of the finest products available on the market. The design team has demonstrated some really fun and exciting ways to use them, but we all know that we provide only the inspiration, the real work comes from your heart !

Have a very artful day.

Forest Fantasy

Recycle, save usable scraps, and create new art!  Teaching and demoing USAQ products for over 15 years has been so rewarding – And FUN!  There was a design done by the USAQ staff years ago called “Forest Floor.”   It is a great introduction to MicaColor Watercolors, stamping, embossing, and using Mica Tiles with Mica Flakes!

Use Foilo scraps and extras to create new art!

Major USAQ Products:

Folio Cardstock – Black (used scraps of folio even better)

MicaColor Watercolor Palettes

PPA Matte

Perfect Brushes

Foil It

Black and White Mat Board

Misc Supplies:

Webbing Sprays (Sold by USAQ)

Fern Stamp (USAQ – Has Sandi Miller Image)

Dark Green Mat Board

Pigment Ink – Black

Black or Clear Embossing Powder

Heat Tool

Mat Knife, Box Cutter, or Heavy Duty Mat Cutting Tool

Cardboard Box

Other items such as water, paper towels or baby wipes.

I am not a hoarder, ha ha but a saver!  I save scraps of mat board and folio cardstock and other bits and pieces – but I always seem to use them up in new art.  Even pieces that have been painted on and cut, I like to save the painted scraps as well.  I hate to throw out anything I might be able to use in the future.  One thing Great about USAQ products is they last long, you get a lot for your $$$, and as I mentioned; scraps and cut offs can be reused.

1.  Find a scrap or piece of black Folio cardstock.  Using Perfect Brushes, brush lines of color with MicaColor Watercolor Palettes.  I chose to do wide strokes of color.

2.  Once the watercolor has dried, stamp the fern with pigment ink (a juicy, slow drying ink) and pour EP (embossing powder) on top, tap off extra and heat emboss with heat tool.  Rip the folio cardstock – rip the paper towards you so there is that nice black edge.  Rip randomly to form a nice pattern around the fern.  Put the finished painted/stamped/ripped piece aside.

3.  Decide the sizes of mat board you want to use.  The white I used, one is smaller than the other- I don’t do exact measurements because I play with leftovers to fit with what I create.  As long as the smaller mat board is just a touch smaller than the folio piece, it works fine.  Look at photo above.  Use the mat knife to cut pieces if needed.

4.   Use the cardboard box as a mini spray booth and spray black and purple webbing spray on both pieces of white cardstock.  USAQ also sells a cool glitter spray so if you wanted to add a bit more *bling* to the project, also spray the gold glitter spray last.  These products add texture, pattern and additional depth to the project but doesn’t overpower the focal point – the fern!

5.  Cover the edges of the smaller white mat board with Foil It.  First do the sides.  I always cut a little bit more Foil than the length or width I am working with as it can be trimmed to size.  In this case, a little too much is better than too little.  Peel the backing off the foil and place 1/2 the width on the front side of the mat and used your finger from the center to the edges to adhere in place.  You can use a bone folder if you’d like.  Fold the extra around to the back of the mat board covering the edge to the back and again adhere in place.  Refer to photo to see how it will look.  After doing both sides, do the top and bottom with the foil.  Applying the foil to the top and bottom last leaves a nice finished look.

6.  Brush PPA to the back of the fern designed folio paper and adhere to the small white mat board.  Adhere the small white mat board to the larger white mat board.

7.  Delaminate (run finger along edge of mica tile to separate layers) mica tile.  Set aside.  Run a line of PPA along the larger white matboard, onto the smaller creating a scroll look.  Sprinkle Mice Flakes of various colors (both the large flakes and smaller flakes) on top of the PPA.  Tap off extra.

8.  Referring to photo, add more PPA in the left, bottom corner and push the mica tile in place.  The PPA will dry nice and clear.  PPA has UV properties and your work will never fade in the sunlight!

9.  Mount the finished piece to black and then dark green mat board.  Feel free to frame your work either with glass or without and display proudly.

NOTE:  Before the palettes were perfected by USAQ, we would use the mica powders from USAQ, powdered gum arabic (USAQ) and mix our own watercolors.  We did the same for pigmented paint (PPA and mica powders) .  When I used to teach these classes, the students learned how to make their own.  I am happy that technology has brought the EASE of having MicaColor Watercolor Palettes/Perfect Pigment Paints and Glazes ready for us to use!!!

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